Ain't It Cool News (www.aintitcool.com)
Review

Fantastic Fest: Annette Kellerman BUGS out

 
My very first film of this year's Fantastic Fest film festival wasn't a Korean drama, a cannibal thriller, or even a bizarro horror movie. It wasn't a blockbuster first-contact story or even an effects-loaded adaptation of a beloved children's book either. No, my first film of the fest was a documentary called BUGS. Specifically, edible insects and the new wave of foodies who seek them out not only for their sustainable protein potential, but also for their unique culinary properties. Enter chefs Josh Evans and Ben Reade of the Nordic Food Lab. Based out of Copenhagen, these two visionary cooks travel the world in pursuit of the tastiest arthropods that can be found. From remote African villages to Japanese hillsides, director Andreas Johnsen follows the cuisiniers on their mission to introduce the food source- already inherently established in much of the world- to western palates.

 
The film is fascinating as much as it is cringe-inducing. Endless images of writhing critters of every kind fill frame after frame, causing even the most unruffled film goer to shudder with disgust. Yet, much like beef or chicken, the protein source becomes more palatable when transformed from its original form, ie prepared and cooked. Though ultimately the film is considered a "food doc" the majority of the film is spent watching feats such as Evans and Reade hacking away at a monstrous termite hill to extract the swollen, undulating queen or poking around a potentially deadly wasp nest to unearth more insect royalty to be cooked and consumed. As the fellows embark on each food adventure we are also introduced to various cultures throughout the world via the hunters that guide the chefs in their unending search. Additionally, when the treasured delicacies are finally captured, they are usually prepared and cooked on site in the tradition of the locals with whom the chefs share the spoils of their conquest.

As with all pursuits, there are challenges and revelations along the way. Soon Reade (the most vocal of the pair) is dismayed with the current trend of factory farming insects. Both guys agree that bugs found in nature are tastier, but Reade takes it a step further by acknowledging the widely accepted theory of poly agriculture versus mono agriculture. Basically, crop systems that are varied in species generally have better survival during all seasons versus systems that favor a closely managed single species that is seasonal. The former is said to promote better soil content thus better, more nutritious food yield- including critters. The more Evans and Reade learn about their obsession, the more the focus shifts from mere culinary delight to conflicted feelings in regard to the burgeoning industry and its standards- or lack thereof.
 
 
Director Andreas Johnsen does a terrific job transcending the typical talking head documentary by featuring an ample amount of footage of the chefs' travels. Though he incorporates a very healthy dose of cringe-inducing creepy crawly realness, Johnsen tends to also balance this with alternate images of nature at its most raw and beautiful. 
 
So whether you approach the film from a culinary, environmental, or shock value perspective the well-rounded BUGS is a fascinating commentary on a potential food source hidden right before our eyes.

Rebecca Elliott
aka Annette Kellerman
 
Readers Talkback
comments powered by Disqus